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Swanage Climbing and Abseiling

By 30th September 2016 No Comments

Abseiling is common when accessing the climbs at Swanage and the sea cliffs are renowned for being a little loose at the top.  Weabb1 don’t want to be hit by a dislodge piece of rock and lose control  during descent and in this blog we are going to look at two methods of protecting your abseil by using a prussic.

The old school method, which is still widely used places a prussic on the leg loop which protects the belay device. This however can cause problems where the karabiner pushes a ‘Zip Lock’ buckle to release the leg loop and making it bigger. This can then result in the prussic touching the belay plate which will release the prussic and prevent it from working! Some manufacturers have developed an extra loop of the leg loop as seen in the picture to help prevent this from happening. Importantly you need a short prussic that is unable to reach the belay plate to make this an effective method.

abb2The more modern method is to extend the belay plate with a sling and attach the prussic to the belay loop. Assuming you don’t have an excessively long prussic this will then prevent the prussic touching the belay plate and stopping it from working. The downside to this method is it takes a little more time and your plate can take a battering against the rock when going over the edge. Importantly enjoy your Swanage climbing experience and stay safe.

The Adventure Brand provides a variety of climbing opportunities and courses, whether you’re seeking personal guiding or coaching; learning the technical and safety skills of lead climbing; advanced sea cliff problem solving and rescues or wanting to become an instructor. Importantly both Portland and Swanage climbing provides an excellent teaching and learning environment for climbs of all abilities. For more information contact click here or Ellis Bird at and get psyched for Dorset climbing.